[Updated] Everything you need to know about dermaplaning and the glass skin trend

What are the benefits of dermaplaning compared to other skin peeling treatments?

Dermaplaning differs from exfoliation techniques such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion because no chemical, suction, or crystals are involved in the treatment.

In contrast, dermaplaning uses a sterile blade to gently scrape away dead skin cells and “peach” hairs from your client’s face to make the skin shiny and smooth.

It’s one of the most popular beauty treatments on TikTok, but while it’s trending right now, it’s nothing new – Marilyn Monroe reportedly shaved her face to help achieve her striking look.

Dr. Ahmed El Muntasardoctor and advanced facial esthetician, says, “The treatment is essentially a mechanical exfoliation so that we get rid of the dead skin on the surface to encourage the skin to look healthier.”

By removing dull peach and dead cells, skin looks brighter and rejuvenated. “It’s also perfect for helping the absorption of your skincare products and supporting perfect makeup application,” adds Jenna Unwin, semi-permanent make-up artist, skin care technician and founder of Million dollar face system, which features dermaplaning.

Is dermaplaning dangerous?

When performed correctly, dermaplaning can be beneficial for the skin. However, as you would expect with people bringing the blades to their faces, there are risks when consumers perform skin planing without the proper training or knowledge of the skin.

Dr. El Muntasar comments, “The blades that people use can be very sharp and can sometimes cut the skin. Thus, you introduce the risk of regular infection, bloodborne infections and cellulitis on the face. The cellulitis can then penetrate the skin in the area around the eyes and cause periorbital cellulitis, which can affect vision.

“You may also risk causing damage and scarring to skin of color, and you may risk post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to the trauma to the skin. So, in my opinion, I do not agree with untrained people doing the treatment.”

In addition to cutting the skin with the blades, there is a risk of damage to the stratum corneum. “At home, people can over-exfoliate, which can lead to a weakened barrier, leaving them with sensitive, red and irritated skin,” says Unwin.

Dr. Maryam Zamani, ophthalmic plastic surgeon, facial esthetician and founder of MZ Skin, adds, “Dermaplaning must be done correctly for maximum benefit. Although it is a simple procedure, risks include redness, skin congestion and breakouts, and the potential for infection.”

“Dermaplaning removes the skin’s protective barrier, which increases the risk of infection, irritation and sun damage,” says Dr. Amir Zerach. G Clinic in London.

“It is important that skin resurfacing treatments are performed by a professional and trained esthetician who understands the proper techniques, including the proper hygiene and aftercare process, that will ensure safe and optimal results.

What happens in a professional dermaplaning treatment?

Of course, properly trained beauty professionals will be able to maximize the benefits of dermaplaning without running the risk of injury and infection.

Explaining how to perform professional dermaplaning correctly, Unwin says: “A trained therapist considers many factors before dermaplaning the skin, including skin type and condition. They should do a full skin consultation and analysis. The skin needs to be prepared and then a balm can be used to help with dry skin.

“A thorough dermaplaning treatment will work lightly back and forth around the contours of the face and the therapist will finish with beneficial serums and SPF, finishing with a full aftercare consultation. They will also work in a sterile environment, reducing the risk of post-procedure flare-ups.”

Dr. El Muntasar emphasizes that it is important to lubricate the skin properly to avoid uncomfortable scratching and to use clean blades to minimize the risk of infection. He also says that therapists and clients should recognize that the treatment is not suitable for everyone, with Dr Zamani adding, “I would recommend against this treatment if you have active acne or any other active skin condition.”

After treatment, you can soothe your client’s skin with a suitable moisturizer and then apply sunscreen to protect it.

How can I improve my dermaplaning technique?

Kate Lowrey, brand trainer at Million Dollar Facial, says: “When you’re first learning how to dermaplane, it can be quite daunting and nerve-wracking, but with a bit of practice and a good technique it all starts to feel natural.”

smallSome of Lowrey’s top tips for perfecting your dermaplaning technique include:

• Practice – this is the only way you will improve and start building confidence.
• Make sure the skin is clean and prepped because you don’t want any makeup or dirt on it, so clean and sterilize first of all.
• Use a professional dermaplaning tool like the Million Dollar Facial Dermaglide. Being able to maneuver the handle to work around difficult areas without putting pressure on the technician makes dermaplaning easy.
• Using a professional conditioning balm provides a glide to reduce irritation and create a barrier on the skin, making dead skin easier to remove.
• Make sure you are at the right angle and moving so you are always working towards yourself. This means you can work more efficiently and safely.
• Stretch the skin and pull it tight as this will reduce the chance of any cuts.
• Work methodically in small sections. you don’t want to miss any domains or rush the process.
• Avoid any raised areas on the skin, including pimples and moles. We also advise you to avoid any end hairs.

Once you’ve completed your dermaplaning treatment, skin is more vulnerable, so always finish with SPF.

Guidance and aftercare is also important to clients. Lowrey recommends:

• Keep skin protected outdoors with SPF and stay out of the sun for at least seven days.
• Avoid touching the skin and keep it clean.
• Keep the skin hydrated and be aware that it may feel a little dry for the next few days.
• Stay away from heat treatments, saunas and steam rooms for at least 48 hours.
• Avoid exfoliating or peeling for at least seven days.

Is dermaplaning painful?

Side effects may include slight redness on your client’s face for a few hours after treatment. Dermaplaning is similar to shaving. During a skin resurfacing procedure, your client should feel no pain. You use an electronic or manual skin planer blade to scrape their skin and this will continue for about 20 minutes as you gently work to exfoliate.

Your client may notice that their skin looks brighter immediately after a dermaplaning treatment. As any redness subsides, they will be able to see the results even more clearly.

How long does dermaplaning last?

The results of dermaplaning are not long-lasting. After three weeks to a month, the results will have faded and so clients will need to have ongoing treatments to maintain the results.

Is dermaplaning the most effective exfoliation treatment?

If clients are primarily looking to remove hair, then professional dermaplaning is the treatment of choice. However, other professional beauty treatments can achieve similar glowing results – albeit without the hair removal element.

Microdermabrasion uses fine crystals and a vacuum to naturally exfoliate dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and can help with fine lines and pigmentation. Chemical peels are also an option, where acid peels use ingredients like glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together.

Dr. Zamani adds, “An example of a treatment that uses exfoliating acids to help remove dead skin cells from the face is Hydrofacial. The skin is cleansed and exfoliated before being prepared for a light fruit acid peel, then a vacuum technology gently extracts impurities. This is a customizable treatment that improves skin clarity, tone and hydration for immediate results with no downtime.”

Because of its ability to encourage dewy-looking skin and remove facial hair – something many people know for themselves – dermaplaning continues to grow in popularity in salons, skin clinics and spas. However, it is important that proper training takes place and that beauty professionals continue to educate clients about the dangers of doing DIY treatments at home.

Want to learn more about modern skin care techniques? Check out our guides to skin freezing and slugging.