Who doesn’t love a DIY project? From candle making to carpentry, there are many things in life that you can learn to do yourself.
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But while these projects are fun and useful hobbies that often involve minimal risk, some things in life are better left to the professionals. This is especially true when it comes to our bodies and health — and it should be a “no-brainer” when it comes to a cosmetic procedure involving your face. In these cases, it is definitely better to seek the hands of a professional.
Hyaluron pens have started to grow in popularity during the pandemic, but plastic surgeons, dermatologists and skin care experts are warning about the dangers of using them. These at-home lip plumping products—which are shockingly available over-the-counter with a simple Internet search—claim to be a quick, needle-free way to give you fuller lips without a visit to your plastic surgeon or dermatologist.
“I can understand that someone might see a product like this in a TikTok video or hear about a friend of a friend who had a ‘good result,'” says the plastic surgeon Martin Newman, MD. “Unfortunately, some people will try something without doing their homework just because someone else did it first and had an acceptable result.”
But Dr Newman explains why you need to be careful when considering hyaluronic pens – and how to make sure you’re following your cosmetic procedures in the safest way possible.
How do hyaluronic pens work?
Hyaluron pens are needle-free devices that use compressed air pressure for propulsion Hyaluronic Acid through your skin into deeper tissue to create the appearance of fuller, fuller lips. They claim to be modeled after portable jet injectors often used to administer drugs such as immunizations and insulin.
When it comes to traditional lip fillers, a syringe and needle are used to inject the desired area with hyaluronic acid — an ingredient commonly used in traditional cosmetic procedures. “In the world of dermal fillers, there are a number of different materials that we use to put under the skin to fill in wrinkles and lines and restore volume,” explains Dr. Newman. “One of the most common such dermal fillers is hyaluronic acid.”
But the makers of the hyaluronic pens claim that instead of the traditional needle and syringe process, the same hyaluronic acid can be applied to the desired area by pushing it through the skin or lip mucosa using high-pressure air or a spring-loaded plunger.
“This device essentially uses a cylindrical tube filled with hyaluronic acid. The tube is pressed against the lip on one side while the high pressure is released on the other — essentially, propelling the hyaluronic acid forward to push the material through the skin,” further explains Dr. Newman. “The idea is that this device applies enough pressure to actually push the substance through the skin into the body. It sounds pretty traumatic to me.”
If it sounds like Dr. Newman isn’t in favor of these devices, he’s not alone. Other experts are not convinced that this procedure is also an effective way to deliver hyaluronic acid. Nor are the devices approved by the US Food and Drug Administration.
“The first question you really have to ask is: How do you push a dermal filler—whose physical properties are those of a thick gel, like Jello®—through the skin?” adds Dr. Newman.
The risks associated with hyaluronic pens
Remember, your skin is the body’s largest organ and should not be taken for granted. While you may sometimes feel like your skin can take a lot—bruises, blemishes, and mosquito bites—it can also be very vulnerable.
Here are some risks and dangers associated with using hyaluronic pens:
Not FDA approved
In October 2021, the The FDA has issued an official warning about needle-free devices like the hyaluronic pen. This statement strongly advises against using devices like this as they have not been properly tested and may lead to side effects such as infections, allergic reactions and more.
Part of the statement reads:
“FDA is aware that needle-free devices and lip and facial fillers for use with these devices are sold directly to the public and their use is promoted on social media to increase lip volume, improve the appearance of wrinkles, to change the shape of the nose and other similar procedures. The FDA has not evaluated the safety and efficacy of needle-free devices for injecting any dermal filler.”
Difficult to administer
Even if you’ve read every article, blog post, and skin care forum about lip fillers, that still doesn’t make you certified to perform such a procedure.
“My concern is that the process is not controlled,” warns Dr. Newman. “When doing a procedure like this, you have to have meticulous control over where, what and how much you’re injecting.”
Due to the nature of handling with these devices, there is a significant risk that the “pens” will not do what you want them to do. Instead, Dr. Newman points out, this can lead to uneven outcomes and much, much worse.
“With this device, it’s like trying to stick a square peg in a round hole,” he says. “These devices attempt to use a well-established drug delivery system, which has been proven effective for water- or oil-based drugs and immunizations, to push a gel-like substance through the skin and mucosa.
“Not only is this traumatic to the target area, but since everyone’s skin is different, you can’t control the depth of penetration, the amount delivered, or your individual results,” she continues. “Your control is minimal at best. With this knowledge in mind, it is obvious to understand how problems can arise.’
Non-medical grade hyaluronic acid
While hyaluronic acid is a widely used material for dermal fillers, this does not mean that all hyaluronic acid is created equal. Here’s why another concern about these devices is about the type of hyaluronic acid supplied with the “pen”.
When hyaluronic acid is used in a doctor’s office, there is a reasonable expectation that it has been tested, approved by the FDA, and selected by your doctor as the best type of material to use for a given procedure. But if you buy a product online, you have no guarantee of what you get.
Serious complications and side effects
When it comes to cosmetic procedures, Dr. Newman says there are always risks, benefits and alternatives that need to be considered and weighed. But, for the reasons described above, hyaluronic pens may carry even higher risks. Furthermore, as these over-the-counter devices are often used by non-medical personnel, usually at home without medical supervision, complications may go unrecognized and/or untreated, leading to permanent disfigurement.
Some complications that can occur due to the use of hyaluronic pen include, but are not limited to:
- Bleeding.
- Bruises.
- Swelling.
- Great asymmetry.
- Scars.
- Permanent pigment changes and skin discoloration.
- Contamination.
- Blockage of a blood vessel, leading to tissue death (necrosis), blindness or stroke.
- Damage to your eyes from the pressure.
- Lumps forming on your skin.
- Allergic reaction.
Why lip fillers are best left to medical professionals
In the fast-paced world of social media, there’s a chance you’ll see a new skin care or cosmetic product advertised every other week. And it’s easy to get carried away by the excitement of doing an expensive procedure at home for a fraction of the cost. But with hyaluronic pens, it’s a classic case of it being just too good to be true.
Chances are, one of the reasons you’re considering a device like this is because you’ve heard it’s been done before. “What really adds fuel to the fire is the fact that someone else did it and had a reasonable result,” Dr. Newman realizes.
But just because a friend may have had a good experience or your favorite influencer is bragging about their results from a hyaluronic pen, it doesn’t mean you’ll get the same result or that it’s safe to use.
Conversely, if you are interested in lip fillers or dermal fillers, Dr. Newman advises consulting a plastic surgeon or dermatologist who can recommend the best approach and administer an approved product in a safe environment.
“Once you look into it – and you don’t have to look far – you’ll realize that these pens are probably not your best and safest option,” he reiterates. “If you want to try a dermal filler or similar type of procedures, it’s really important to rely on the expertise of well-trained professionals.”
Your skin – and your smile – will thank you for it.
