Looking for a non-invasive way to fight the signs of aging, I turned to facial laser treatments. As it turns out, there is a ton of information out there on the subject. So, to guide me through the laser grove, I tapped Kathryn Clayton, Aesthetic Nurse Practitioner at SkinSpirit. Not only did he share the four most common types of facial laser treatments, but also the benefits and potential side effects of each. Each type of laser addresses certain skin care issues and the laser that is right for you may not be the right one for me. So, from the least powerful to the most powerful laser, here is a comprehensive guide on how to choose the best laser for you.
Read on for four popular laser facial treatments.
1. IPL and BBL (560 or 590 nanometers in wavelength)
What is
IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and BBL (Broad Band Light) are lower wavelength lasers that are gentler on the skin compared to some other laser treatments, Clayton explains. “If you’re taking care of your skin and want to laser your toes, IPL would be a good place to start.” And while they don’t require any downtime, because they’re so mild you’ll generally need to have a series of treatments with these lasers to see results, he adds.
What He Faces
According to Clayton, IPL and BBL lasers are a good option to start with if you’re only dealing with pigmentation or redness. “It’s good for sun damage, brown spots, capillaries around the nose and cheeks.” You may also want to consider these facial laser treatments if you have rosacea.
Possible Side Effects
While these treatments can address common skin concerns, people with darker skin should be wary of IPL and BBL, Clayton stresses. “Melanin really loves this wavelength,” he says. “If you have someone with darker skin, you can burn them and hyperpigment them.”
2. Resurfix and Fraxel (1565 nanometers in wavelength)
What is
Resurfix and Fraxel treatments work by using tiny laser columns to target the dermis and stimulate collagen production. Since these lasers are over 900 nanometers, they target water (rather than melanin) – meaning they are able to address texture changes in the skin and are generally safer for people with darker skin tones. And because they’re under 2,000 nanometers, they don’t remove the skin’s surface, Clayton adds. Translation: little to no downtime.
What He Faces
These facial laser treatments help improve skin texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as scarring. They also work for a better tone, treating pigmentation and sun damage.
Pro tip: “You can do an IPL and then do a Resurfix on top of it in the same appointment,” explains Clayton. “This is a good combination because it targets reds and browns, as well as any mild texture issues.”
Possible Side Effects
Although Resurfix and Fraxel tend to be better than other types of lasers for darker skin tones, Clayton says to proceed with caution. “You still have to be careful not to over treat anyone. I would go to someone who specializes in treating darker skin,” she advises.
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3. Halo (2940 nanometers in wavelength)
What is
Halo is an ablative and non-ablative laser treatment that can be used on all skin types, including darker shades, because it targets water instead of melanin. However, Clayton adds that darker skin tones should sometimes be pretreated with hydroquinone. “If you’re just starting out [with facial laser treatments]I would go with a Halo laser to freshen up a bit and then switch to IPL and Resurfix for maintenance,” she shares.
What He Faces
“If you’ve got deep wrinkles and really stubborn lines, you’ll also need skin-tightening materials—so we have to up the ante a bit more,” explains Clayton. This means treating the skin with the Halo laser. This facial treatment also fights acne scars.
Possible Side Effects
But the added power of a Halo also has some drawbacks. Because it’s ablative, “you’re going to feel more of that seduction and crying” on your skin, Clayton comments. Additionally, she cautions people with melasma using most lasers, but especially ablative ones. “Melasma hates heat, and you can flare it up,” she says. “I tend to use more chemical peels with melasma.”
4. CO2 (10,000 nanometers in wavelength)
What is
The CO2 laser is a fractional laser that is not for the faint of heart. It is a laser removal treatment that uses CO2 to improve skin tone and texture by boosting collagen production. You will need conscious sedation or laughing gas for the procedure. Additionally, this laser requires the most downtime (about two weeks) and you can only really get it done once every two to five years.
What He Faces
Clayton recommends this laser for patients who have aggressive elastosis (a condition in which the skin loses its elasticity, usually due to sun exposure) and wrinkles.
Possible Side Effects
Patients with rosacea will sometimes see a flare-up after CO2 treatment. Additionally, Clayton says that people with darker skin tones should be extra careful when receiving CO2 laser treatment. “If you’re too aggressive, you can cause scarring and hyperpigmentation that you can’t fix,” she warns.
Frequent questions
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Do facial laser treatments hurt?
It can be uncomfortable, but pain tolerance varies from person to person. Fortunately, most treatments are relatively quick.
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How much do laser skin resurfacing treatments cost?
According to American Society of Plastic Surgeons, the average cost of an ablative facial laser treatment will be around $2,500 while a non-ablative one will cost around $1,450. Please note that these prices will vary by location and do not take into account follow-up treatments.
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How long do the results of facial laser treatments last?
When treating superficial scars, the results from facial laser treatments are permanent. But when the signs of aging are treated, the results can last for years, although they may recur due to the natural aging process. Lifestyle choices will also affect this timeline.
The New Age is an over-40 beauty column written by women over 40. Kate Spencerits author In a New York minuteand Doree Shafririts author Thanks for Waiting: The Joy & Weirdness of Being a Late Bloomerare his hosts Forever35 Podcast.