Retinol and laser hair removal: Rules to follow

Ahead, dermatologists and laser hair removal experts break down why retinol and lasers can be such a deadly combination for your skin’s integrity.

What is laser hair removal?

Before we look at how retinol and laser hair removal interact with each other, it’s important to understand what laser hair removal actually does to your skin.

Laser hair removal is a cosmetic procedure that destroys hair follicles at the root through repeated pulses of light. These light pulses target the pigment in the hair follicles, destroying them with the heat generated by each laser pulse. By targeting the pigment of the hair follicle, the laser pulverizes the follicle without damaging the surrounding skin cells.

How does retinol work?

Retinol is an antiaging skin care ingredient derived from vitamin A. Retinols work to exfoliate the skin from the bottom up by stimulating cell cycle, so your face looks like that of a newborn angel when you use it regularly. This increase in cell turnover is also why skins warn patients about the dreaded retinol cleanse, a period of weeks where your skin can look worse before it gets better.

Because it’s so powerful, unfortunately, it can make your skin more sensitive to external forces—whether they’re chemical, mechanical, or thermal—which is why dermatologists warn users to stay away from certain skin care ingredients, hot wax, and Yes, laser when using it. This is also why dermatologists recommend using milder, specially formulated products when using retinol for your undereyes.

Retinols vs. Retinoids vs. Tretinoin: What’s the Difference?

You may have heard retinols, retinoids, and tretinoin used interchangeably when shopping for skin care products, but these three terms are slightly different.

The term retinoids refers to the class of skin care ingredients derived from vitamin A, including (but not limited to!) retinol and tretinoin. Retinol is a type of retinoid commonly found in over-the-counter antiaging skincare ingredients. Tretinoin, on the other hand, can only be purchased with a prescription.

This is because tretinoin has a higher potency than retinol.

“Retinol is a weaker form of retinoid,” explains Georgetown-based SkinSpirit esthetician. Kathy Shay, RN. “It’s still effective at reducing fine lines and wrinkles and renewing skin if used consistently, but cell turnover is slower.”

Can I use retinol before laser hair removal?

The short answer: Experts don’t recommend it.

“Retinols can be irritating and drying, which can lead to potential adverse reactions after laser treatment associated with a higher risk of burning,” says Lauren Abramowitz, PA-C and founder of Skin Solutions Collective. Board Certified Dermatologist Estee Williams, MDagrees, noting, “the risk associated with using a laser device on facial skin that has been treated with retinol in the past one to two weeks is that the recovery period will be longer than usual because the skin is extremely sensitive to the laser.”

I learned this lesson the hard way a few weeks ago when I just forgot to stop the retinol treatment before going to laser my moustache. As any skin care professional could have predicted, my upper lip was red (albeit hairless) for most of the next week.

What happens if you use retinol before laser treatment?

In addition to redness, Naana BoakyeMD, Board Certified Dermatologist and Founder Bergen Dermatology, says other unwanted side effects from using retinol before laser treatment include irritation, hyperpigmentation, or possible burning. The severity of the effects will depend on the concentration of retinol, he notes.

While these rules apply everywhere—from skin resurfacing lasers to hair removal—not all skin types will necessarily respond the same to a retinol laser. Patients with dry or sensitive skin are more likely to have a reaction, therefore my the skin turned red.

How to safely use retinol while having laser hair removal

No need to cancel your laser hair removal appointment or throw away your fancy retinol cream just yet. with proper preparation and planning, you can have the best both of the world. Here’s how.

How long should I avoid retinol before laser hair removal?

Shay, who has over 23 years of experience in cosmetic dermatology and specializes in cosmetic laser treatments, recommends avoiding retinol for at least three to five days before your treatment. But if you’re anything like me (aka sensitive skin), Dr. Boakye says your best bet is to stop your retinol regimen at least a week before your appointment. This gives the skin enough time to repair itself, as retinols exfoliate the skin.

With all of this in mind, Dr. Boakye notes that some dermatologists and providers may recommend that you continue using retinol until your treatment. There is some research that touts the benefits of using a retinoid pre-treatment for three months before certain facial laser treatments…as long as you stop using it right before.

If you’re having a laser hair removal treatment like Fraxel, experts suggest using a 0.1% tretinoin cream and stopping use just 24 hours before. If you are receiving non-ablative laser therapy, reduce the dose to 0.05%. And make sure to go heavy on the moisturizer throughout the process to prevent reactions.

What other treatment should you avoid during laser hair removal?

Stopping retinol isn’t the only precaution you should take before going under the laser. Dr. Williams notes that you should also plan to remove all skin care products with acids, benzoyl peroxide, and any retinol-like substances (a la Differin) at least five days before your laser appointment.

“It is important to discontinue all retinoids in addition to products that contain alpha or beta hydroxy, glycolic and salicylic acids,” adds Shay. “It’s also important to stop waxing and tweezing for about four weeks [that] the hair is in the follicle at the time of treatment.

Post-treatment care

After your treatment, be sure to fully read the post-treatment care instructions with your laser hair removal provider. This is key to ensuring you get the best experience and results, says Boakye. “The patient should follow them to reduce irritation and side effects.”

According to Shay, you can apply a thin layer of aquaphor or hydrocortisone cream after treatment to promote healing and reduce redness.

When should I restart retinol after laser hair removal?

Retinol can be continued 3-4 days after the laser hair removal treatment “as long as the skin is completely healed and there are no visible signs of the treatment,” such as redness or swelling, Shay says. “The usual skin care regimen can be fully resumed at this time,” she adds.

After any type of laser treatment, Dr. Boakye suggests avoiding retinol for anywhere from two days to two weeks or until complete healing is complete. However, this timeline may vary depending on the specific laser treatment. Also, wait 24 hours after the procedure, then use zinc-based sunscreen religiously for the next two weeks. Then, you’ll be all good to go back to your regularly scheduled retinol intake.

When in doubt (especially if it’s your first time getting a laser treatment of any kind), Dr. Boakye advises calling your dermatologist or laser provider to ask if they recommend any specific pre-laser preparation instructions.

Frequent questions:

How long should you stop retinol before laser hair removal?

According to Shay, you should stop using retinol skincare products at least three to five days before your scheduled laser hair removal treatment, while Boakye recommends giving your skin a full week to prepare for the procedure.

What happens if you have laser hair removal after using retinol?

Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to light. Because laser hair removal devices use intense flashes of light, this opens up your already vulnerable skin to irritation.

“[It] it can cause longer healing times and possibly burns and scarring,” says Shay.

Can I use retinol while doing IPL?

Intense pulsed light (IPL) treatments (also known as hyperpigmentation photofacials) use light, not lasers, says Dr. Boakye. However, she still recommends talking to your doctor or provider before using retinol. How long before an IPL treatment you should stop retinol, he says, will depend on your skin and the settings the doctor uses. As a general rule of thumb, stop using retinol a week early.

Can I have laser hair removal while taking tretinoin?

You can, but you (and your skin) might regret it.

Tretinoin, like retinol, is a retinoid. Because retinoids make your skin more sensitive to light, the combination of tretinoin and laser hair removal can lead to skin irritation.

Can You Use Vitamin C Before Laser Hair Removal?

Dr. Boakye says it’s usually a good idea to use vitamin C before laser hair removal. However, your provider may reduce the power setting if your skin shows signs of irritation.

Can I use hyaluronic acid while having laser hair removal?

Yes!

Hyaluronic acid is a moisturizing ingredient, says Dr. Boakye, so there’s no problem. But as mentioned before, always check with your laser provider if you are unsure about using specific ingredients before a treatment.