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Goodbye, cutting your bangs. Hello… dermaplaning?
This skincare ritual is another social media-driven beauty trend exploding in popularity.
If you’ve never heard of it or are seeing photos for the first time, the photos and captions may confuse you. Some swear it’s the secret to smooth, soft skin.
But there is a razor.
Why? Because dermaplaning involves shaving your face.
“A lot of people are very confused about it for good reasons,” says Cassandra Bankson, medical esthetician. “Is it a women’s facial shave? Is it exfoliating? It’s a bit of both. You can remove facial hair with waxing and tweezing, but dermaplaning is a way to remove it and exfoliate the skin at the same time.”
However, it’s not exactly new. Icons like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor according to information used dermatoplaning.
Bankson believes the reason dermaplaning has been somewhat under the radar until now is that, in part, people didn’t like talking about shaving their faces.
“Shaving your face was a taboo subject that no one ever talked about until recently,” says Bankson. “Many women use razors or cheap eyebrow scissors behind closed doors to exfoliate or remove facial hair at home.”
Bankson says no one should be ashamed of their facial hair or feel the need to remove it.
If you’re looking to get rid of fine, shiny facial hair or achieve smoother skin through regular exfoliation, she says dermaplaning is an affordable option.
That said, there are some downsides and it’s not for everyone.
Read on to find out if dermaplaning is the right treatment for your skin.
There are many reasons to dermaplane, including:
- hair does not grow back thicker
- easier makeup application
- it’s quick and simple
- it is low cost
- leaves your skin noticeably smoother
Hair does not grow back thicker
Experts say dermaplaning effectively removes unwanted growth or “baby” hair from the face.
Plus, Bankson says that dermaplaning prevents hair from growing back, unlike tweezing and waxing.
Bankson says that when you tweeze or wax, you can remove the nipple, the area at the bottom of the hair follicle.
The nipple plays a crucial role in the hair:
- formation
- development
- cycling
- Renaissance
“Removal of the nipple can cause the hair to grow back thicker…if the base of the hair follicle and the nipple are damaged,” says Bankson. “When shaving or planing, the hair is cut at the base of the skin.”
This means skin planing leaves the nipple intact.
Makes makeup application easier
Since dermaplaning removes dead skin, it is another form of exfoliation. It can leave your face soft and clean.
This can help simplify another step in your beauty routine: applying makeup.
“Dermaplaning allows you to have a nice, even, smooth canvas to put makeup on,” says Park.
It’s quick, simple and cheap
A trip to a spa may seem like a treat, but sometimes we don’t have the luxury of time or extra cash to spend. Dermaplaning is something you can quickly block out at home with a spa effect.
“Doing it at home can save money and it’s convenient,” says Park. “You can do it whenever you need or want, and it only takes a few minutes.”
Bankson says doing it professionally can cost you anywhere from $75 to $200.
Gives you smooth, soft skin
Bankson knows beauty is more than skin deep, but she still loves the way dermaplaning makes her feel.
“It gives you a new look,” she says. “The outside world may not even recognize it, but you may notice that your skin is glowing. I love the feeling of smooth skin.”
If it works for you, this may be the only benefit you need.
Although there are many reasons to praise it, dermaplaning has some disadvantages. These may include:
- skin irritation
- dryness
- sensitivity to sunlight
- risk of cuts and scars
- bacterial spread
May irritate the skin
Dermaplaning is usually a simple procedure, but accidents do happen.
“There’s a risk of cutting or nicking the face,” says Bankson. “If you scratch the face, it could cause a cut or scar.”
Bankson suggests using a sharp razor with a safety blade or going to a professional if you’re nervous.
It will not help with the causes of facial hair
While dermaplaning has its share of purported benefits for skin care, Bankson and Park caution that it won’t help everyone with facial hair.
If you’re concerned about the amount of facial hair you have, Bankson and Park suggest seeing a doctor to rule out other conditions, such as PCOS or hirsutism, that can cause thick, rapid hair growth.
They say it’s better to get these conditions diagnosed so you can get the best treatment rather than trying to cover them up at home.
While exfoliation can help with clogged pores, Park also advises acne patients to be careful with dermaplaning.
“The razor can spread bacteria and make the irritation worse,” she says.
You can overdo it
While skin planing can be a relaxing part of your self-care regimen, there’s such a thing as too much of a good thing.
“It depends on how much facial hair you have, but I would recommend doing it once or twice a month,” says Park.
Doing more can irritate the skin, cause dryness or make you more prone to sunburn.
It is not mandatory
Bankson says she grew up being bullied for her skin conditions, including acne. She started using products to try to fix everything she felt was “wrong” with her.
This made taking care of herself feel more like work, and she doesn’t want anyone else to feel that way about skin treatments, including dermaplaning.
Although society may say that women and people who portray women should not have facial hair, she believes that people should feel free to embrace themselves.
“Do it if you want,” he says. “Do it if it makes your face softer, your makeup looks nicer, and if it’s a choice, not a chore.”
If you’re new to dermaplaning, Bankson says you won’t want to just grab the same razor you use to shave your legs.
“These razors typically have three to five blades,” he says. “When you cut [facial] hair, it’s a little thinner and the skin on the face is thinner.”
Estheticians and dermatologists often use stainless steel surgical blades. Bankson suggests leaving them to trained professionals for safety reasons.
Instead, Banskon recommends using a facial razor with a safety blade.
She says Tinkle Eyebrow Razors they’re not the most durable, but they’re an affordable option that will do the trick.
The process itself is simple and you won’t need shaving cream.
“At-home dermaplaning should be done on clean, dry, stretched skin for the most effective exfoliation,” says Bankson.
Follow the steps below for the best experience:
- Wash the face and dry them.
- Hold the skin taut with one hand.
- Hold your device at a 45 degree angle.
- Gently glide your device over the skin in short, light strokes.
- Finish with moisturizer.
This will “remove dead skin cells, debris, and other dull peaches quickly and effectively,” says Bankson.
Be safe
When skin planing, always use a clean, sharp razor with a safety blade designed specifically for shaving the face.
Dermaplaning has recently been on the rise on social media, but has been around for years.
The process removes facial hair and exfoliates the skin, leaving you with a smooth canvas for makeup application. You can do it yourself or visit a professional.
If you’re doing it yourself, first things first: Make sure it’s something you want to do. There is nothing wrong with looking a certain way, including facial hair, regardless of your gender identity.
Also, consult your doctor if you know or think you may have conditions such as acne or PCOS. Dermaplaning can worsen or mask symptoms.
Beth Ann Mayer is a writer based in New York. In her free time, you can find her training for marathons and wrangling her son, Peter, and three babies.