Most of us would probably agree that the concept of ‘wellness’, although extremely popular at the moment, is rather vague. Consisting of countless services and products that range from the wonderful to the deplorably glossy, it’s often hard to sort the medically-backed wheat from the inner chaff—and easy to come away feeling like it’s not better, but much less solvent. It puts the practice of acupuncture in a delicate position. It is supported by the NHS for the treatment of chronic and musculoskeletal pain and migraines, however the NHS website likes to point out that ‘traditional’ acupuncture (as opposed to what they call ‘medical’ acupuncture) ‘is not always based on rigorous scientific evidence ” and “rely heavily on faith” in certain principles.
This “belief” is related to the concept of qi – or vital energy – which is said to flow throughout the body along meridians that connect our organs and the entire system together. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), from which acupuncture originated, believes that diseases of the body and mind begin with blockages that prevent this energy from flowing freely, causing systemic inflammation—which, Western medicine agrees, is the root of a huge amount of diseases. TCM practitioners aim to unblock energy and blood stagnation by inserting needles into specific points around the body and face, restoring – in their delivery – balance, healing nutrients and oxygen flow. In this way, acupuncture treats the symptoms of the disease as well as its causes, making it very much a form of preventive treatment. The NHS will only admit that needles help release natural chemicals such as endorphins, thus helping to relieve pain.
Time tested
Pain-free practices such as cosmetic acupuncture – hailed by many devotees for their skin-lifting, plumping and toning effects – are supported by little evidence from a Western perspective. The lack of research condemns professionals like Joanna Ellner, a former beauty editor turned TCM acupuncturist. “There are many peer-reviewed studies demonstrating the benefits of acupuncture, but only one on facial acupuncture for skin rejuvenation,” she says. “Yet acupuncture has been quietly delivering results for thousands of years. It has survived cultural revolutions, wars and the rise of technology – if it didn’t work, it would have simply faded away like so many of the facial rejuvenation gadgets I tried as a journalist.” It’s the technological revolution, Ellner believes, that may be one of the reasons why acupuncture is finally coming into its own here. “It’s about the human touch and that connection,” he says. “I think its rise stems from us longing for these things as biological creatures, when our hyper-digitalized culture distances us from them.”
The beauty of acupuncture
So how is facial acupuncture meant to work – and does it amount to a ‘natural facelift’? “As with all acupuncture, we treat it root and branch, so to speak,” says Ellner. “A qualified TCM practitioner will diagnose which organs may be contributing to skin problems (dry skin, for example, is likely linked to the lungs) and place needles corresponding to them at points around the face and body.” This signals the body to turn its attention to conditioning, cleansing and nourishing the affected areas, aiming to deliver skin-enhancing benefits from the inside out. Meanwhile, Ellner explains, these needles (which can penetrate up to 10mm) have a direct effect on the skin: they can simulate muscle as well as trigger an injury response that boosts collagen density in the dermis. “I also insert tiny gold endodermal needles directly into the fine lines of the face at a much more superficial depth to help stimulate the regeneration of fresh cells in the epidermis, which is often last in line to receive cellular nutrients,” she says.
It shouldn’t be confused with microneedling, says TCM doctor John Tsagaris, whose client list includes many A-listers. “Microneedling is an effective way to mechanically resurface the skin, while aesthetic acupuncture is about skin biostimulation and a mind-body approach,” she explains. He also argues that the practice can “optimize the regenerative abilities” of cosmetic procedures like lasers, mesotherapy and other modifications—”most of which my clients have had,” he says. Tsagaris uses acupuncture to improve the appearance of filler lumps and fix damaged Botox, and claims that specialized needles can even enhance bone regeneration and speed up the breakdown of fat, helping to correct the loss and migration of fat. of tissues that occurs with age. In addition, he has developed his own method called Acuskinlift, which, he explains, works by twisting the needle to “wrap the collagen fibers around it, forming threads.” “These support the skin’s structure, resulting in firmness, volume and activation of fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin,” she explains.
Elsewhere, aesthetic acupuncturist and holistic healer Sarah Bradden will combine facial acupuncture with reiki, LED light, acupressure massage, ear seeds (think tiny nails on acupuncture points) and, sometimes, microneedling. “I specialize in things that help the skin help itself,” she says. “Facial acupuncture is a powerful treatment that is even more effective with these complementary treatments, which I tailor to the individual.” Ellner practices the same way, with cupping, gua sha and tui na facial massage techniques.
Those who emerge from a facial session with Tzagaris, Ellner, or Braden are always thrilled with the tone and luscious translucency they’re left with — along with a sense of inner calm. The results are temporary, but appear with regular treatment. All the benefits of acupuncture are gradual and cumulative as it takes time for the body to reset and release blockages.
Beyond pain relief and facials
Increasingly, health professionals of all persuasions are seeing acupuncture as the perfect complementary therapy for their skills. Last year, Pricc teamed up with eye health brand Peep Club to offer a treatment aimed at relieving dry eye syndrome – a scratchy, watery condition that is on the rise and has been clinically proven to be relieved by acupuncture sessions. “Dry eye has a lot to do with inflammation and will get progressively worse if left untreated,” says Victorine Pot, acupuncturist and founder of Pricc. “Research shows that acupuncture stimulates our vagus nerve, triggering the adrenal glands to release dopamine to curb the activity of inflammatory molecules.” Therefore, a course of treatment could free you from dependence on eye drops.
London’s Nejati Dental Clinic pairs antiseptic dental hygiene (to remove oral biofilm, which can lead to gum and systemic disease) with an acupuncture session with Bradden. “The combined effects reduce inflammation in the gums and beyond – and help the body heal,” explains dental surgeon Mahsa Nejati.
In both cases, there is no set acupuncture protocol for the eyes or mouth. “That would be beside the point,” says Bradden. “Acupuncture is by nature bespoke, with the same imbalances and symptoms having very different causes depending on the patient.” Whatever the ailment, achieving homeostasis or internal stability in the body is the ultimate goal of acupuncture. From there, everything else should follow—including a calm mind and previously glowing skin. If it was good enough for the Empress of China (who, Tsagaris tells me, was one of the few allowed to have acupuncture after it was invented several centuries BC), it’s definitely worth a try.
This article first appeared in Good Housekeeping in May 2023.
